So, you’re ready to build a permanent spot for countless lekker get-togethers? Good on you. Building your own brick braai is a proper weekend project, but it’s more than that. It’s about creating the heart of your home’s outdoor life, a solid structure that’ll become the focal point for family and friends for years to come.
This guide is your blueprint for building it with confidence. We’ll skip the jargon and give you the practical steps you need.
Key Takeaways:
- Location is Key: Pick a spot away from prevailing winds, open windows, and flammable structures.
- Foundation First: A solid, level concrete foundation is non-negotiable for a long-lasting braai.
- Use the Right Bricks: Standard clay bricks are fine for the structure, but you must use fire bricks and heat-resistant mortar for the firebox.
- Cure It Slowly: Don’t rush to have a big fire. Cure your new braai with a series of small, slow fires over several days to prevent cracking.
Why a Brick Braai Is a DIY Project Worth Tackling

Forget those wobbly kettle braais that need replacing every couple of years. When you build a braai with bricks, you’re investing in something permanent. It’s a durable feature that adds genuine value to your property. I’ve built a few in my time, and I can tell you there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of cooking a tjop (a chop, usually lamb or pork) on something you’ve created with your own two hands.
This guide will walk you through the entire process, from picking the perfect spot in your garden to lighting that first celebratory fire.
What Makes a Brick Braai a Great Project
- Longevity and Durability: Unlike the metal alternatives, a well-built brick braai can last for generations. It stands up to the harsh South African sun and stormy weather with minimal fuss.
- Customisation: You’re the boss here. You have complete control over the design. You can build a simple structure for weekend braais or go all out with an elaborate outdoor kitchen, complete with countertops and wood storage.
- Cost-Effectiveness: Sure, there’s an initial outlay for materials, but the long-term value is undeniable. Clay bricks are a locally produced, affordable, and sustainable building material.
Our Take: Building your own braai is a deeply rewarding experience. It connects you to a core part of South African culture and leaves you with a functional masterpiece you can be proud of for years to come.
Before you start digging, it’s worth weighing up the pros and cons of DIY versus professional stone installation. This can help you figure out if a brick braai is the right DIY mission for you. It definitely requires patience and a bit of elbow grease, but the payoff is a fantastic outdoor cooking area tailored perfectly to your home and lifestyle.
Designing Your Ideal Braai and Choosing the Right Spot
Before you even think about mixing your first batch of mortar, let’s talk strategy. A great braai starts with a solid plan, and getting the design and location right will save you a world of trouble later. After all, once it’s built, it’s not going anywhere.
First things first, let’s find the perfect spot. I once built a braai too close to the kitchen door, thinking it would be convenient. The result? Every time the wind turned, the whole house filled with smoke. Don’t make my mistake. Spend a bit of time just watching your garden.
Key Location Factors to Consider:
- Prevailing Wind: Watch which way the wind typically blows in your yard. You want to position your braai so that smoke is carried away from your entertainment area, open windows, and definitely your neighbours’ washing line.
- Proximity to the Kitchen: It needs to be close enough for easy trips back and forth with tongs, spices, and a cold dop (a drink, usually alcoholic), but not so close that smoke becomes a constant issue indoors.
- Safety First: Make sure the area is well clear of overhanging trees, thatch roofs, wooden decks, or anything else that could catch a spark. A clear radius of at least three metres is a good rule of thumb.
Sketching Out Your Braai Design
Once you’ve scouted the perfect location, it’s time to get creative with the design. Are you a minimalist who just needs a simple, functional space for boerewors (a traditional South African sausage) and steaks? Or are you dreaming of something more ambitious, maybe with built-in countertops and dedicated wood storage?
There’s no single “correct” design here. The goal is to build something that suits your space and how you like to braai. I always recommend starting with a simple sketch on paper. This small step helps you visualise the final product and makes estimating your material needs much more accurate. Even if you’re not an architect, getting some basic ideas down on paper is crucial. When thinking about foundations and layouts, guides on similar projects, like this one on building a bar in a basement, can offer some surprisingly useful planning tips.
Actionable Insight: The single most important element of your build is the foundation. A solid, level concrete base is non-negotiable. It stops your structure from shifting, cracking, and becoming a hazard over time. Skimp on this, and you’ll live to regret it.
Getting the Dimensions Right
Comfort is everything when you’re standing at the grid for a few hours. You don’t want to be stooping over the whole time. A comfortable braai base height is typically between 850 mm and 950 mm from the ground to the surface where your coals will sit.
If you’re building a braai with a chimney, quality brickwork is even more important for safety and function. While the base height stays in that 850-950 mm range, a chimney needs to be at least 3.5 metres tall to draw smoke effectively, which will obviously influence your material costs.
For the internal width and depth, a good starting point is around 800 mm wide by 500 mm deep. This gives you plenty of space for a decent-sized grid without being massive. And don’t forget to factor in the features you want. As you plan, you might want to check out our detailed guide on the most important features for a built-in braai to get some ideas. A bit of careful planning at this stage ensures your finished brick braai isn’t just sturdy, but perfectly suited to your needs.
Selecting the Right Bricks, Mortar, and Materials
This is where your braai starts to become a reality. Getting your materials right is the difference between a braai that stands strong for years and one that needs patching up before you’ve even perfected your boerewors technique. Nail this part, and your structure will handle countless fires and whatever the South African weather can throw at it.
The backbone of your braai is standard clay bricks, what most of us just call “stocks.” They’re perfect for the base and the main structure—affordable, tough, and easy to find. With about 3.6 billion bricks produced in SA annually, they’re a solid, local choice. A standard brick measures 220 x 110 x 75 mm, which makes planning your layout a breeze. You can dig deeper into the legacy of South African clay bricks on claybricksa.co.za if you’re keen.
Bricks for the Firebox: The Non-Negotiable Part
Right, listen up because this is the most important rule of the whole build: the firebox must be built with fire bricks. I can’t say this enough. Your standard clay stocks just can’t take the direct, intense heat from a proper wood or charcoal fire. They will crack, crumble, and eventually fail, putting the whole structure at risk.
Fire bricks, or refractory bricks as they’re also known, are engineered to handle extreme temperatures, often up to 1,300°C. They’re much denser and have special thermal properties that let them absorb and radiate heat evenly without falling apart. Using them isn’t just a suggestion; it’s an investment in your braai’s future.
Getting Your Mortar Mix Just Right
Mortar is the glue holding this all together, and just like the bricks, you need two different types for the job. For the main structure built with your standard stocks, a general-purpose mortar mix is all you need.
A classic, reliable recipe is a 4:1 mix:
- 4 parts building sand
- 1 part cement
Mix the dry ingredients together first before you even think about adding water. Then, add the water slowly until you get a smooth, buttery consistency. It shouldn’t be so wet that it drips off your trowel, but not so dry that it crumbles. Think thick, spreadable peanut butter.
For the firebox, you absolutely must use a specialised, heat-resistant mortar called refractory cement. It’s designed to cure properly under high heat and won’t degrade like standard cement will. You can buy it pre-mixed; just add water as the manufacturer tells you.
Pro Tip: Never, ever use regular cement mortar with fire bricks. It will crack and fall apart after just a few fires, and your firebox will become dangerously unstable. Always match the mortar to the brick.
Braai Material Selection Guide
To make your trip to the hardware store a bit easier, here’s a straightforward breakdown of what you’ll need for each part of your build. This should clear up any confusion about why each component is so important.
| Braai Component | Recommended Brick | Why It’s Essential | Required Mortar |
|---|---|---|---|
| Foundation & Base | Standard Clay Bricks (Stocks) | Provides strong, cost-effective structural support for the lower part of the braai. | Standard 4:1 Sand/Cement Mix |
| Outer Walls | Standard Clay or Face Bricks | These form the exterior shell. Face bricks offer a cleaner, more decorative finish if desired. | Standard 4:1 Sand/Cement Mix |
| Internal Firebox | Fire Bricks (Refractory) | Built to withstand extreme direct heat up to 1,300°C without cracking or degrading. | Refractory Cement (Heat-Resistant) |
| Grid & Ash Pan | Mild or Stainless Steel | The choice of steel affects durability and maintenance. For a deeper dive, check out our guide on the best steel types for a built-in braai. | N/A (Component is fitted, not mortared) |
With this clear list in hand, you’re all set. Choosing the correct bricks and mortars is the first real step in building a proper brick braai that will last you a lifetime of good times.
Constructing Your Braai: From Foundation to Firebox
Right then, here comes the best part—turning your careful plans and pile of materials into a proper braai. This is where the vision starts taking shape, one brick at a time. It definitely calls for a bit of patience and a good eye, but trust me, the process is incredibly rewarding.
This infographic gives you a quick breakdown of the essential zones of your braai build.

You can see the flow from the structural base right up to the specialised firebox. It shows exactly why picking the right brick and mortar for each section is so critical for a safe, long-lasting structure.
1. Pouring a Rock-Solid Foundation
Everything, and I mean everything, rests on the foundation. A wobbly base means a wobbly braai, so don’t even think about rushing this part. The goal here is a perfectly level concrete slab that’ll stop your masterpiece from shifting or cracking down the line.
Start by marking out the footprint of your braai with some pegs and string. Dig this area out to a depth of about 150 mm. You’ll then want to fill the first 50 mm with gravel or even broken bricks to help with drainage.
On top of that, you’ll pour a concrete slab that’s at least 100 mm thick. Once it’s poured and perfectly level, you have to let it cure for a minimum of three to five days. Seriously, walk away. Go do something else; don’t even look at it.
2. Laying the First Course of Bricks
With your foundation fully cured and hard as a rock, it’s time to lay the most important course of bricks: the very first one. This single layer sets the standard for the entire build. Get this one perfectly straight, level, and square, and the rest of the job becomes a hundred times easier.
- Do a Dry Run: Before you even think about mixing mortar, lay out your bricks on the slab. This lets you check your spacing and layout and avoid any nasty surprises.
- Set Your Lines: Use a builder’s line stretched tightly between pegs. This is your guide, your straight edge. Don’t skip it.
- Mix Your Mortar: Get that 4:1 sand and cement mix ready. You’re looking for that perfect, buttery consistency we talked about earlier.
- Lay the First Brick: Spread a 10 mm layer of mortar (a “bed”) onto the slab and firmly press your first brick down. Tap it gently with the handle of your trowel until your spirit level says it’s perfect.
- Build Out: Apply mortar to the end of the next brick (we call this “buttering”) and press it firmly against the first one. Use your spirit level constantly—across the top and along the face of every single brick.
My best tip: to keep your mortar joints looking sharp and uniform, use a small block of wood as a spacer. A piece of scrap timber cut to exactly 10 mm thick is perfect. It guarantees every gap is consistent and gives your final build a much cleaner, more professional look.
3. Building the Walls and Firebox Floor
Once that first course is set, building upwards is all about repetition and focus. We’ll use a classic, strong “stretcher bond” pattern. This is the one you see everywhere, where each brick is offset by half its length from the one below it.
As the walls go up, keep your design front and centre in your mind. If you planned for a wood storage area below the firebox, this is where you’ll build the dividing walls and leave the front open. Keep laying courses until you reach the height you planned for your firebox floor—usually around 850 mm is a comfortable height.
At this point, you’ll install the concrete slab that acts as the floor of your firebox. This can be a pre-cast slab you’ve bought or one you poured yourself. Mortar it securely into place, checking and double-checking that it’s completely level. This solid surface is what will support the fire bricks and contain the intense heat.
4. Switching to Fire Bricks and Refractory Mortar
Once the firebox floor slab is in and secure, you can put your standard bricks and mortar aside. From this point upwards, for any surface inside the firebox, you will only use fire bricks and refractory mortar. This is completely non-negotiable for a safe and durable braai that’ll last for years.
The actual process of laying fire bricks is identical to what you’ve been doing, but you’ll be swapping your mortar mix for the heat-resistant refractory cement.
- Mix the refractory cement exactly as the manufacturer’s instructions tell you.
- Lay the fire bricks flat on top of the concrete slab to form the firebox floor.
- Continue building the internal walls of the firebox with fire bricks, course by course, up to your desired height.
Keep your spirit level in your hand at all times. Check every brick, every course, and every corner. Take your time. Building a brick braai isn’t a race. It’s about careful, methodical work that results in a structure you can be proud of for decades to come.
Adding the Chimney and Finishing Your Braai
With the main structure solid and the firebox complete, you’re on the home stretch. Don’t rush these final steps. Building the chimney and properly curing the whole structure are what will make your braai truly functional and ensure it lasts a lifetime. I’ve seen it happen too many times: someone gets excited, fires it up too early, and ends up with a smoky patio and cracked brickwork.
A well-built chimney is the difference between a pleasant braai and a teary-eyed, smoke-filled disaster. Its job is to create a natural “draw,” pulling smoke up and away from you and your guests. For this to work properly, height is key. Your chimney should extend at least a metre above any nearby roofline to stop the wind from blowing smoke straight back down.
Shaping the Chimney Throat for a Perfect Draw
As you build the chimney courses up from the firebox, you’ll need to create a gentle inward taper. This narrowing section is called the “throat,” and its shape is absolutely crucial. It funnels the hot air and smoke, speeding it up to create a strong, consistent draw.
Think of it like putting your thumb over the end of a hosepipe—it increases the pressure and directs the flow. I usually achieve this by stepping in each new course of bricks by about 10-15 mm on the front and sides. You keep doing this until the flue opening is a manageable square size, often around 250 mm x 250 mm. This transition is what stops smoke from spilling out the front of your braai.
Installing Your Braai Grid
While the chimney deals with the smoke, the grid is where the real magic happens. You’ve got a couple of solid options here, and your choice really depends on whether you want a fixed height or the flexibility to adjust it.
- Simple Steel Supports: The easiest way is to mortar short lengths of steel angle iron directly into the mortar joints of your firebox walls. This gives you a sturdy ledge to rest the grid on at your preferred height. Dead simple, and it works.
- Adjustable Mechanisms: For more control over your cooking temperature, you can build in a purpose-made adjustable grid system. These usually involve fitting notched steel channels to the inside walls, allowing you to raise or lower the grid to get the heat just right.
Our Take: A well-built braai becomes part of your home’s character. When you use quality, locally sourced materials, you’re not just building an outdoor cooker; you’re continuing a proud South African tradition. It’s a project that genuinely adds lasting value.
This tradition is supported by a solid local industry. The South African brick manufacturing sector remains resilient, with strong demand helping to sustain small-scale producers. This is great for DIY projects like this, keeping costs down and supporting local jobs. It’s one of the reasons building with brick is such an authentic cultural practice. You can find out more about the local clay brick industry on whoownswhom.co.za.
The Crucial Curing Process
Once that last brick is laid, you have to fight the urge to fire it up straight away. I know it’s tempting, but the mortar needs time to cure chemically and harden properly. Rushing this is the single biggest cause of cracks.
Give your new braai at least one full week to cure naturally. If it looks like rain, cover it with a tarpaulin. After this initial wait, it’s time for the final, critical step: the curing fires. This involves lighting a series of small, slow fires to gently bake out any leftover moisture trapped deep within the bricks and mortar. It’s essential for preventing thermal shock, which can cause serious cracking the first time you have a proper fire.
My Step-by-Step Guide to Curing Fires:
- Day 1 (The First Fire): Start with a tiny fire. I’m talking a handful of kindling and a single small log. Let it burn for about an hour, then let it go out and cool down completely.
- Day 2 (Slightly Bigger): Build a fire that’s a little bigger than yesterday’s—maybe two or three small logs. Let this one burn for about two hours before letting it cool down fully.
- Day 3 (A Proper Small Fire): Now you can build what looks like a small but proper braai fire. Keep it going for two to three hours. The goal here is a gentle, sustained heat.
- Day 4 (The First Real Braai): If everything has gone well and you don’t see any new cracks, you’re ready. Build your first proper fire, let the coals burn down, and throw on some boerewors. You’ve earned it!
This patient, methodical approach is the final secret to ensuring your brick braai is crack-free, structurally sound, and ready for decades of good times.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Even with the best plans, a few questions always pop up when you start a project like building a braai with bricks. Let’s run through some of the most common queries.
How much does it cost to build a brick braai?
For a basic DIY brick braai, you can expect to spend between R3,000 and R7,000 on materials. This includes standard clay bricks, essential fire bricks, sand, cement, refractory mortar, and a simple grid. Costs increase with more complex designs, premium face bricks, or added features like countertops.
Do I need council approval to build a braai in South Africa?
Generally, no. A standard backyard braai is considered a minor building work and doesn’t require planning permission. However, you should check local bylaws if your design is unusually large, has a very tall chimney (over 3.5 metres), or is located on a boundary wall.
Can I use normal house bricks for the whole braai?
No, this is a critical safety rule. You must use specialised fire bricks and refractory mortar for the internal firebox. Normal house bricks cannot withstand the direct heat from a fire and will crack and crumble, making the structure unsafe.
How do I clean and maintain my brick braai?
Maintenance is simple. Sweep out ash only when it is completely cold. Clean grease stains with a stiff brush and a mixture of water and vinegar. Once a year, inspect the mortar joints inside the firebox for any cracks and patch them with the appropriate mortar.
What is the best height for a braai grid?
A comfortable working height for the coal bed is between 850 mm and 950 mm from the ground. This prevents you from having to stoop over while you cook. The grid height above the coals can then be adjusted for temperature control.
Building a brick braai is a fantastic project, but it does take some planning and effort. If you get halfway through and decide it’s a bit more than you want to handle yourself, there’s no shame in calling in the pros. You can find a list of trusted built-in braai installers who can bring your vision to life without you having to lift a single brick.
Ready to create your ultimate outdoor cooking space? At Braai Culture, we stock a wide range of top-quality built-in and freestanding braais, fireplaces, and all the accessories you need. Find the perfect fit for your home at https://braaiculture.com.
