The best cleaner for your stainless steel braai depends entirely on the mess you're facing. For everyday fingerprints and light grease, a simple mix of mild dish soap and warm water is surprisingly effective, safe, and gets the job done without any fuss.
For more stubborn jobs, you'll need a bit more muscle. A specialised commercial cleaner for stainless steel is a great option, or you can whip up a homemade paste of baking soda and water. This gives you more cleaning power without gouging the surface. The golden rule is to always avoid harsh abrasives and wipe with the grain of the steel, not against it.
Key Takeaways
- Start Gentle: For light cleaning, a mix of dish soap and warm water or a 50/50 vinegar-water spray is best.
- Go Stronger for Grease: For baked-on grime, a paste of baking soda and water is a fantastic, non-scratching DIY option.
- Wipe With the Grain: Always wipe parallel to the steel's brush lines to avoid scratching and ensure a streak-free shine.
- Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Never use bleach, oven cleaner, or abrasive powders. They can cause permanent damage, pitting, and rust spots.
- Dry Thoroughly: After cleaning, always buff the surface dry with a clean microfibre cloth to prevent water spots and restore the gleam.
Keeping Your Stainless Steel Braai Brilliant
A gleaming stainless steel braai isn’t just a piece of cooking equipment; it’s the heart of your outdoor entertainment area. But between sizzling boerewors (a traditional South African sausage), sticky marinades, and the odd dop (drink) spill, that brilliant finish can quickly lose its shine to fingerprints, grease, and those notorious heat stains.
Choosing the right cleaner is about more than just making it look good—it’s about protecting your investment for many more years of lekker (great) braais.
The shops are flooded with options, and it’s frighteningly easy to grab the wrong one. I learned this the hard way years ago with a brand-new gas braai. Eager to get rid of some heat marks on the lid, I grabbed an abrasive kitchen powder I had under the sink. Within minutes, I had permanently dulled the beautiful finish with a web of tiny, heartbreaking scratches. It was a frustrating lesson: not all stainless steel is created equal, and the wrong cleaner can cause irreversible damage.
Understanding Your Braai's Finish
Modern braais, especially high-end built-in braai units, come with different steel grades and finishes. A brushed finish has a distinct grain—you can see the lines—while a polished or mirrored finish is perfectly smooth and reflective. If you use an aggressive, scratchy cleaner on a brushed surface, you can easily ruin its texture. On the flip side, a weak cleaner won’t even touch the baked-on grime on your cooking grates.
This is becoming more important as stainless steel becomes more popular in South African homes. The market is projected to grow at a rate of 6.6% CAGR between 2025 and 2031, driven by new construction and design trends. That means more of us will have stainless steel to look after, and we need to know how to do it properly.
My biggest takeaway from that cleaning disaster? Always, always start with the gentlest method first. You can escalate to a stronger cleaner if you need to, but you can never, ever undo a scratch.
This guide will walk you through the safest and most effective ways to clean your braai. We'll cover everything from quick post-cook wipe-downs to those deep-cleaning sessions that bring back its original shine. We’ll look at both DIY solutions and the best commercial products to have in your cleaning arsenal.
Building Your Braai Cleaning Toolkit
Before you can win the war on grime, you need the right squad of cleaning gear. Grabbing the wrong tool, like a steel wool pad or an aggressive kitchen scourer, can leave permanent scratches all over your beautiful braai. Trust me, it’s a mistake you only make once. A proper toolkit means you're ready for anything, from a quick wipe-down after a midweek tjop (chop) to a serious weekend deep clean.
Your first line of defence should always be the softest. I keep a dedicated stack of microfibre cloths just for the braai—they’re brilliant for wiping away fingerprints and polishing surfaces without leaving lint or scratches. For those slightly tougher spots, a soft-bristled brush is your go-to. An old toothbrush works perfectly for getting into tight corners and dislodging food bits without harming the steel.
Everyday Essentials vs. Heavy-Duty Helpers
For daily maintenance, you don't need much. But for those weekend deep-cleans where grease has really settled in, you'll need to bring in some bigger guns.
- For the Quick Wipe: A spray bottle filled with a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water, plus a couple of microfibre cloths, is usually all it takes.
- For Baked-On Grime: A non-abrasive scouring pad is your best friend. Look for ones specifically labelled as safe for non-stick pans; they’re gentle enough for stainless steel but tough enough to get the job done.
- For Stubborn Grease: A simple paste of baking soda and water offers just enough gentle abrasion to lift tough, greasy stains without scratching the finish.
This simple decision tree can help you figure out the best approach for the mess at hand.
As you can see, most minor jobs can be handled with a simple wipe, but once serious grease is involved, you'll need a more active cleaning solution.
My Go-To DIY Cleaner and Polish
For a quick, satisfying polish that cuts through light grease and brings back the shine, I swear by a simple homemade cleaner. Just mix one part white vinegar with one part water in a spray bottle. Spray it on, wipe it off with one microfibre cloth, then grab a second, dry cloth with a few drops of olive oil to polish the surface.
Always remember to wipe with the grain of the steel—it’s the secret to getting that factory-fresh gleam. It’s cheap, it's effective, and you already have everything you need in your kitchen.
When it comes to deciding between whipping up your own solution or grabbing a bottle from the store, there are a few things to consider. I’ve put together a quick breakdown to help you choose.
DIY vs Commercial Cleaners: A Cost and Effectiveness Breakdown
| Cleaner | Average Cost (Rand) | Effective On | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vinegar & Water | R2 – R5 | Light grease, water spots, fingerprints | Extremely cheap, non-toxic, readily available | Not strong enough for heavy, baked-on grime |
| Baking Soda Paste | R3 – R6 | Stubborn food residue, moderate grease | Gentle abrasive, deodorises, affordable | Can be messy, requires some elbow grease |
| Olive Oil Polish | R5 – R10 | Smudges, streaks, final polish | Natural, leaves a protective shine | Can attract dust if too much is used |
| Commercial Degreaser | R80 – R150 | Heavy, carbonised grease, burnt-on food | Highly effective, fast-acting | More expensive, harsh chemicals, strong fumes |
| Stainless Steel Polish | R100 – R200 | Heat stains, rust spots, discolouration | Restores original lustre, provides protection | Costly, specialised product |
Ultimately, both have their place in my cleaning kit. The DIY options are perfect for everyday upkeep, while a good commercial cleaner is essential for those heavy-duty jobs a few times a year.
A word of caution: while these DIY cleaners are fantastic for the braai's exterior, they often aren't powerful enough for the interior grates. This is where a proper commercial cleaner proves its worth, as these formulas are designed to dissolve that tough, carbonised grease.
When putting together your toolkit, you might want to consider a specialised marine metal polish for stainless steel to really make those surfaces gleam. And while you’re focused on keeping the outside pristine, don’t forget that your cast iron grates need a completely different kind of care. If you need a refresher, check out our guide on how to season cast iron to keep them in top condition for years to come.
The 5-Minute Post-Braai Wipe-Down
The real secret to keeping your stainless steel braai looking brand new isn't some epic, hour-long scrubbing session once a month. Nope. It's the small, consistent effort you put in right after the tongs go down.
This simple, 5-minute routine is my go-to. It stops those little grease splatters and marinade drips from turning into a weekend-long battle against baked-on grime.
The trick is all in the timing. You’ve got to tackle it while the braai is still warm, but not scorching hot. At this stage, any residue is still soft and hasn’t had a chance to carbonise, meaning it’ll lift off with barely any fuss. If you wait until it’s stone cold, you’ve just made the job ten times harder for yourself.
Act While the Braai Is Warm
Once you’ve pulled the meat off and the flames have died down, give it about 10–15 minutes. You’re looking for that sweet spot where the exterior is warm enough that a drop of water sizzles a bit, but cool enough that you can briefly touch it without losing your fingerprints.
I keep a dedicated spray bottle handy filled with a simple 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water. A quick spritz on that warm surface is usually all it takes to dissolve fresh grease. A good quality microfibre cloth is your best mate here—it grabs all the gunk without leaving a single scratch behind.
Pro Tip: Whatever you do, never spray cold water or a cleaner onto a searing hot braai lid. That sudden temperature change is called thermal shock, and it’s a one-way ticket to warping or permanently discolouring the metal. Just let it cool down a bit first.
The Secret Is in the Grain
Here’s a rookie mistake I see all the time: wiping in circles. Every piece of brushed stainless steel has a 'grain'—those faint, directional lines in the finish. Your mission is to find the direction of that grain and always, always wipe parallel to it.
Wiping against the grain creates thousands of tiny scratches that, over time, will dull that beautiful shiny surface. It’s the difference between a braai that looks its age and one that looks like it just came out of the box.
Following the grain doesn’t just prevent damage; it also leaves a perfect, streak-free finish. For me, this is non-negotiable.
Here’s the quick routine I follow after every single braai:
- Step 1: Lightly spray the warm exterior—lid, side tables, control panel—with the vinegar and water solution.
- Step 2: Grab your first microfibre cloth and give all the sprayed areas a firm wipe, always moving with the grain of the steel. You'll see the fingerprints and grease lift right off.
- Step 3: Finally, use a second, completely dry microfibre cloth to buff the surface. This step removes any leftover moisture and brings back that brilliant, showroom shine.
Honestly, this whole process takes less time than it does to dish up the potato salad. Make it a habit, and you'll stop the build-up that forces you to break out the heavy-duty cleaners later. Your braai stays looking fantastic, and your future self will thank you for it.
Your Annual Deep Clean Guide
That quick wipe-down after a braai is brilliant for keeping things tidy, but once or twice a year, your stainless steel braai needs a proper, thorough deep clean. This is your chance to get stuck into the really stubborn stuff that a season of good times leaves behind—the baked-on grease, those sneaky rust spots, and the colourful heat tints that tell the story of many lekker meals.
Think of this as less of a scrub and more of a full-on restoration project. It's about bringing your braai back to its showroom glory. It’ll probably take you an afternoon, but I promise you, the results are always worth the effort.
First things first: safety. If you’ve got a gas braai, always disconnect the gas bottle completely. No shortcuts here. It’s best to work in a well-ventilated spot—outside on the lawn is perfect—and get yourself a pair of sturdy gloves to protect your hands from all the grime and cleaning agents.
Tackling Baked-On Grease and Grime
The inside of your braai lid and the grates are where the real battle begins. Over time, grease carbonises into this rock-hard layer that a simple brush just won't touch. For this mission, my go-to weapon is a simple homemade baking soda paste.
Just mix baking soda with a bit of water until you get a thick paste, something like the consistency of toothpaste. Don't be shy—slather this stuff all over the greasy areas. Let it sit for at least 15–20 minutes. This gives the alkaline paste time to work its magic and break down the acidic grease. After that, grab a non-abrasive scouring pad and scrub in circular motions. You’ll be genuinely surprised at how it lifts the grime without scratching the steel.
For those exceptionally stubborn, burnt-on bits, a specialised commercial cleaner for stainless steel might be your best bet. These formulas are made to dissolve that kind of mess. Just be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter.
Dealing with Rust Spots and Heat Tint
Seeing a few rust spots on your pride and joy can be a bit alarming, but it’s usually just surface rust and is surprisingly easy to sort out. That same baking soda paste works wonders here, too. Apply it directly to the rust, let it sit for about an hour this time, and then gently scrub it away with a soft cloth. Always, always move with the grain of the steel to avoid making scratches.
Heat tint—that bluish or brownish discolouration you often see on braai lids—is another common sight. It’s just a result of high temperatures altering the protective chromium oxide layer on the steel. Nothing to panic about.
To get rid of it, you’ll need a mild acid like vinegar.
- Mix Your Solution: Create a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water.
- Apply and Wait: Using a soft cloth, wipe the solution onto the heat-tinted area and let it sit for a few minutes.
- Wipe and Rinse: Gently wipe the area, following the grain, then rinse it thoroughly with clean water to neutralise the acid.
- Dry Completely: This last step is crucial. Use a dry microfibre cloth to buff the area until it’s bone dry. This prevents any water spots from forming and ruining your hard work.
Here’s a personal tip: after any deep clean, I like to do a final polish. Once everything is clean and dry, I apply a tiny amount of a purpose-made stainless steel polish on a microfibre cloth. It not only restores that incredible shine but also adds a thin protective layer that helps repel future grime and fingerprints.
Creating a Maintenance Schedule
To keep your braai in top shape and avoid these marathon cleaning sessions, a simple schedule makes all the difference. It's like servicing your car—a bit of regular attention prevents big problems down the line.
Here’s the simple routine I stick to:
- After Every Braai: Do the 5-minute warm wipe-down. No excuses.
- Monthly Check: Take a quick look at the gas hoses for any cracks, clear any blockages in the burner tubes, and give the exterior a proper polish.
- Twice a Year: This is when you'll do the full deep clean. I find doing it once before summer kicks off (around November) and again at the end of the season (around March) works best.
Sticking to this routine ensures your stainless steel braai not only looks fantastic but also performs safely and efficiently for years. It’s all about protecting your investment and making sure you're always ready for the next spontaneous get-together.
Common Cleaning Mistakes to Avoid
It’s surprisingly easy to do permanent damage to that beautiful stainless steel finish. A simple mistake with the wrong cleaner can leave you with a braai that looks worse than when you started. I've seen it happen, and it's heartbreaking.
This isn't about being overly fussy; it's about protecting your investment. Understanding what not to do is just as important as knowing which techniques work. Let's cover the most common blunders I see South African braai owners make so you can steer clear of them.
Harsh Chemicals Are Not Your Friends
The single biggest mistake is reaching for aggressive household cleaners. Things like bleach, oven cleaner, or any product containing chlorine are the absolute enemies of stainless steel. Chlorine compounds cause a chemical reaction that can lead to pitting and corrosion, leaving tiny, irreversible rust-like spots.
Similarly, avoid abrasive powders or scouring creams. They might seem like a good idea for tough, burnt-on grease, but they’ll scratch the surface, dulling the finish and creating new hiding spots for future grime.
I once had a mate who used a chlorine-based bathroom cleaner on his braai lid to shift a stubborn stain. It left a permanent, cloudy blemish that he could never polish out. Stick to cleaners made specifically for the job or the gentle DIY options we’ve discussed.
The Wrong Tools for the Job
Your choice of tool is just as critical as your choice of cleaner. The moment you touch your braai with steel wool or a metal scouring pad, you’ve lost the battle. These will absolutely scratch the finish.
Even worse, tiny particles from the steel wool can break off and embed themselves in the surface, where they will inevitably rust. This is how you get those mysterious orange spots appearing on a non-rusting surface. Always, always stick to soft microfibre cloths or non-abrasive pads.
Other Common Pitfalls to Sidestep
Beyond chemicals and tools, a few other habits can cause trouble. Keep these points in mind to maintain that perfect finish.
- Forgetting to Dry Thoroughly: This is a big one, especially in areas with hard water. Leaving water to air-dry will leave behind mineral deposits, creating dull, chalky-looking spots that are a nightmare to remove. Always buff your braai completely dry with a clean cloth.
- Wiping Against the Grain: As we've mentioned, always work with the visible lines in the steel, not against them. Wiping in circles or against the grain creates micro-scratches that ruin the uniform look of the finish.
- Using Dirty Water or Cloths: Reusing a greasy cloth or dirty water just moves the grime around instead of removing it. You’ll end up with a streaky mess. Always start with clean tools for a spotless result.
Your Stainless Steel Cleaning Questions Answered
We get a lot of questions about looking after stainless steel braais, so I've put the most common ones right here. Think of this as your quick-fix guide for everything from rust spots to choosing the right polish.
What's the Safest Way to Clean the Inside of a Stainless Braai?
The safest and most effective way to clean the inside is with a thick paste of baking soda and water. It's food-safe, non-toxic, and gently abrasive enough to cut through heavy grease without scratching the steel. Avoid harsh chemical oven cleaners, which can leave residues.
Can I Use Vinegar on All My Stainless Steel Gear?
Yes, a diluted 50/50 mix of white vinegar and water is excellent for cleaning and polishing the exterior of your braai. However, never use undiluted vinegar or let it sit for extended periods, as its acidity can eventually cause discolouration. Always rinse with water and dry thoroughly after use.
How Do You Get Rid of Rust Spots?
To remove surface rust, make a thick paste of baking soda and water, apply it to the spot, and let it sit for an hour. Gently scrub with a soft cloth or toothbrush, moving with the grain of the steel. Rinse well and buff completely dry to prevent a recurrence.
What’s the Difference Between 304 and 430 Grade Steel for a Braai?
304 grade is a higher quality stainless steel with more nickel, making it significantly more resistant to rust and corrosion, especially in coastal areas. 430 grade is more common in budget-friendly braais; it's still durable but is more prone to surface rust if not maintained diligently. Knowing your steel grade helps you care for it properly. You can learn more about the various built-in braai steel types here.
Can I Use an Abrasive Scouring Pad on Stubborn Spots?
No, never use steel wool, metal scourers, or any abrasive pads on your stainless steel braai. They will leave permanent scratches and can embed tiny metal particles that will rust later. Always use non-abrasive pads (like those for non-stick pans) or soft microfibre cloths.
Ready to find the perfect tools to keep your braai in top condition? Braai Culture has a curated selection of accessories and high-quality braais built to last. Explore our range today at https://braaiculture.com.
